Monday 14th May, 2018, Tacna, Peru

The AirBnB here in Tacna is terrific value for money at 50 soles per night (NZD$25.00) for a large room with a single and a double bed in it. If I were on my own the cost would only be 35 soles (NZD18.00). The “house” is large (on two levels) and beautifully appointed with a large lounge with big screen TV and expensive looking dining suite and other furniture. The only negative is the basins and sinks only have one tap for water – cold. I’m used to having hot and cold running water in the bathroom basin for a shave and a wash. Gas doesn’t seem to be reticulated to homes in Peru but some have bottled gas for heating water in a califont, but not this one. There’s a 9kg gas bottle next to the oven and cooktop in the kitchen but the shower water is heated with an electric affair that has been fitted over the water pipe. It looks a bit “Heath Robinson” to me with 230v wires that have just been joined with insulation tape and my concerns are confirmed when I try to adjust the shower head to increase the temperature and feel the unmistakable buzz of 50 hertz of 230v current tingling my wet hand! After my shower I try to warn Greta that the shower is dangerous and not to touch the shower head while she’s showering, but she dismisses my warning, saying this is normal in Peru to have this type of shower head with an electric heating element in it. I save my breath. I may stop here for several days anyway as Tacna feels “good”. The central street has a beautiful long piazza (?) which is tiled and lined either side with mature palm trees that add a special ambience. There’s lots of greenery so there must be water somewhere although I’ve seen no evidence (apart from the many fountains playing in the city). After strolling the Central Market on Saturday and buying a Chirimoya which I had for breakfast this morning we settled on the tour for Sunday which turned out to be four hours, not two, for only 30 soles each. The tour did the city highlights for half an hour before heading out into rural Tacna where the first stop was a winery and Pisco distillery. Our small group of 15 or so gathered around as the samples came around – about 10 taster glasses of the various wines, liqueurs and pisco. Greta only drank the first few and kept giving me her taster glass after that so I in fact consumed about 16 or 17 taster glasses by the end of the session and was definitely feeling the effects! The dry red was a nice Malbec Sec which I bought two bottles of for 20 soles each. Ishmal, the Turkish guest here, and I consumed one of those between us over dinner last night at the AirBnB. He says he has been traveling for the past two years because he can’t return to Turkey. He doesn’t reveal the reason and I surmise that maybe he committed some “crime” there punishable under Sharia law by death or imprisonment that isn’t a crime anywhere else in the civilised world. Daniella and her Mother tell us over dinner that they have been at a free “all you can eat Mothers Day buffet” at one of the casinos in the city for the morning, proudly boasting that they ate the whole time they were there! I’ll say no more about that! The rest of the tour we visited points of local interest including a long rope suspension bridge across a dry river valley with the Spanish speaking guide doing her spiel. I had the Spanish to English translation in my book, of course. Some of the tourists opted out of crossing the bridge out of nervousness (it swung from side to side as you crossed, as suspension bridges do). After the tour we came back to the AirBnB, me for a siesta while Greta caught up with friends on her mobile.

The two noisy small dogs across the street from the outdoor terrace here which bark incessantly from their elevated terrace whenever there is another dog on the street below are a pain when you want to sit outside and enjoy the evening (dogs are the most negative reason for visiting Chile or Peru – they and their “deposits” are everywhere and a nuisance and in some cases a menace). But last night while I was wishing I had a gun to silence them I had an epiphany moment and got my powerful laser and used that to try to blind them so they couldn’t see the dogs on the street – it seemed to work as they fell silent almost immediately (but must have regained their sight overnight, I hear).

After dinner (it gets dark here around 6pm) I decided to go back into the city centre for a look around and walked in from here, about 2 kms. I stopped at a lively fairground on the way where mainly youngsters were enjoying the roller coasters and other rides and playing the usual shooting gallery games, etc. Tickets cost 8 soles for 4 rides which is great value for money if you’re a tourist. I continued on walking and soon arrived in the main street again and after an hour or so of strolling (nothing much is open on a Sunday evening) began looking for a 200 line bus back to the AirBnB. After an eternity and every other number between 1 and 200 coming past I gave up and decided to try to find my way back in the dark. I knew once I got close in the general direction I’d be able to see the huge elevated and illuminated “MAESTRO” sign above the store by the same name and get my bearings from there. I started off in the right general direction and passed the fairground which wasn’t that far from the AirBnB so knew I was close – close enough to see the sign I needed to get my bearings in the dark. I kept walking. A medium sized black dog rushed at me barking with teeth bared and challenging me. The adrenalin rushed in and I decided the “fight” response was going to be better than the “flight” response in this case. It snapped at my leg and even made contact with my wallet in my back pocket which may have saved me from a nasty bite. All the time I’m aware that dogs here carry rabies and a puncture wound will mean an emergency rabies vaccination (which isn’t necessary or recommended unless you get bitten or scratched). Another similar sized dog joined the first as I kicked out at the first more aggressive one with my boot. It managed to dodge my foot each time but kept up its menacing behaviour. There are some large stones around my feet but I’m nervous to reach down and pick one up as my arms are exposed and more vulnerable to a bite in the process. As the dogs continue their attack I have no choice – I can’t turn away from them or they’ll almost certainly come in for the kill. I try backing away while facing them but they just follow at the same distance away. In the end I have no choice and reach down to pick up a rock the size of a cricket ball. That does the trick – they realise they are now the ones at risk and scarper. I keep walking, not entirely sure I’m heading in the right direction and suddenly realise that I’ve walked in a huge circle and wound up back close to the city centre – I wonder how I could have missed the Maestro sign. I’m tempted to try again but decide after several hours of walking that a taxi at 5 soles is a good idea. The driver knows the sign and heads straight there – IT’S NOT LIT UP!! The lights have been turned off, presumably around 9pm, to conserve power. That’s why I couldn’t get my bearings! I was probably only a street or two from it when I passed it and continued my circuitous journey back to the city. I’m relieved to be back in the AirBnB, safe and sound without any injuries.

Today, Monday, I think I’ll just chill around town! Enough excitement for now! More tomorrow.

Main central plaza walk in Tacna, Peru.