I'm not looking forward to the next leg of my trip - 5pm tonight until 5am tomorrow! Almost twice as long as most coach sectors I do and as long as Santiago to Sydney by air! Thankfully my accommodation will have a night receptionist on duty who can let me in at 5am. I booked the stopovers using a tourist map of Peru which I bought in Puno but it doesn't accurately represent the distances between towns. If I'd had an accurate road map I'd have maybe gone as far as Celedin the first day instead of only Cajamarca. Though Cajamarca to Chachpoyas doesn't look that far on the tourist map it's obviously a very slow trip across the Andes due to the number of switchbacks necessary to gain the altitude needed to get across these huge mountains. 1 kilometre (1,000 metres) in altitude means about 40 kilometres of road travel, often on unsealed narrow roads with huge drop-offs into ravines. It may be safer traveling at night because the coach can see oncoming traffic (if they have lights). The alternative route, over the "Death Road", is littered with buses that have gone over the edge, according to the people I've talked to who've done it. It will only be light for the first hour of my trip tonight so I might not get any photos.
I had a good breakfast again this morning at a place called "Ronald's", which is quite a way from here ($1 in a mototaxi), but they do a large bowl of mixed fresh tropical fruit salad with cereal and yoghurt. I asked for less fruit and more yoghurt this morning but still didn't get the proportions I was hoping for - only slightly less fruit and slightly more cereal, but it was still good and even with a large cup of coffee less than $4.00. I'll probably not eat again today - the coaches have toilets on board but they ask you not to use them for "number twos". I did have to one time, but I try to comply with their request. I only hope the coach stops somewhere en route for a half hour break so I can get a coffee and a snack (and use the restaurant loo if it's clean enough). You sometimes have to bucket water out of a 44 gallon drum outside the cubicle to flush them and they always cost, usually only half a sol (.25 cents).
I took a few photos of the washerwomen at the well across the road from this Airbnb doing my washing this morning - they do an excellent job, scrubbing the collars of my shirts so hard I was worried they'd disintegrate and rinsing the suds off thoroughly before wringing them out by hand (never as dry as a spin cycle, of course). I decided I'd risk it in the hope I'd at least get the shirts dry before 4pm today on the line at the Airbnb. It's overcast with no breeze so it may not happen, but at least it's clean and will only be damp. The internet connection here is so slow I won't even attempt to upload them to this posting today - hopefully it'll be a fast connection in the next place.
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The street where I was staying - more like a dry river than a street. |
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The washerwoman doing my laundry opposite the house I stayed in. |
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Every day, hundreds of buckets of water by hand from the well to the tubs to do the laundry. |
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